Travel

Touring by train is a fantastic way to see Alaska in the spring

The Alaska Railroad had to cancel this weekend’s trains between Anchorage and Seward because of avalanche danger.

In May.

Sure, the weather’s been crazy this year, but I didn’t have a Mother’s Day avalanche on my bingo card. Thankfully, the railroad arranged for bus transportation to and from Seward both for day-trippers and those catching a cruise ship south to Vancouver.

But the announcement served as a wake-up call that it’s time to book passage on the Alaska Railroad for travel this summer.

Already, visiting friends are calling with questions about which train to book and where to stay.

Once the avalanche risk to Seward is mitigated by the railroad’s crew, daily service on the Coastal Classic train is set to resume on May 15.

The ride from Anchorage to Seward is a beautiful one, but it calls for an early wake-up. Departing at 6:45 a.m., the train arrives in Seward at 11:20 a.m. That’s in time to take the midday glacier and wildlife cruises that leave from Seward’s small boat harbor. The train depot is close enough that it’s just a five-minute walk to check in for your boat ride.

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Between now and May 31, travelers can ride the rails for $183 round-trip in Adventure Class. For an upgrade, choose Gold Star service, which includes breakfast on the way to Seward and dinner on the way back. In between meals, there’s a full-dome car to watch the scenery. Two drinks are included. The cost during the “value season” between now and May 31 is about twice as much: $376 round-trip. After June 1, the regular pricing kicks in: $211 round-trip for Adventure Class and $430 round-trip for Gold Star. Children under 12 are half-price. There’s also a military discount of 20% off published rates.

There are a few more options for traveling north from Anchorage to Talkeetna, Denali and Fairbanks.

In addition to the railroad’s own cars, there’s a collection of private cars that the railroad pulls each day.

The Denali Star train started its daily service on May 9, with “value pricing” through May 31.

Between Anchorage and Talkeetna, the value price is $95 each way ($226 one-way for Gold Star). After June 1, the price increases to $119 one-way ($263 for Gold Star). The Denali Star leaves at a more reasonable hour: 8:20 a.m., arriving in Talkeetna at 11:05 a.m.

The popular route for visitors is between Anchorage and Denali. After leaving Talkeetna, the train arrives at the Denali depot at 3:40 p.m. Between now and May 31, ride to Denali from Anchorage for $151 one-way in Adventure Class, or $320 in Gold Star. Again, meals, drinks and the full-dome car seating is included in the Gold Star package. Adventure class travelers can purchase their meals in the dining car, or bring their own food along.

It’s a 12-hour ride from Anchorage to Fairbanks, but it’s a great trip. Between now and May 31, ride in Adventure Class for $215 one-way. Starting June 1, the rate goes up to $277 one-way.

One-way is enough on the train to Fairbanks. It’s faster and cheaper to fly Alaska Airlines back home. If you plan ahead, it’s $98 one-way, or 5,000 miles (plus $6 in fees).

Princess Alaska Lodges offers packages which include rail transportation on the line’s private cars, plus accommodations in Talkeetna or Denali Park.

A two-day/one-night package from Anchorage to Talkeetna includes the train ride up to Talkeetna and a bus ride to the lodge from the depot. The Mt. McKinley Princess is not far from Talkeetna as the crow flies, but the drive takes about an hour from the depot. The lodge sits above the banks of the Chulitna River and affords a beautiful view of Denali from the deck near check-in. Cost is $274.50 per person, double occupancy.

A three-day/two-night package to Denali costs $499.50 per person, double occupancy. That includes round-trip rail, two nights of hotel accommodations and transfers to and from the hotel.

Princess offers one- to four-night packages, as well as rail-only fares which are comparable to the Alaska Railroad’s. The rail cars are full-dome on the top deck, with dining cars below (cost of meals is not included).

[Are guests visiting you in Alaska? Here are a few easy options for quick journeys or easy day trips.]

Premier Alaska Tours also offers full-dome cars on the route between Anchorage, Talkeetna and Denali. If you see the passenger trains on the tracks during the summer, Premier’s cars are distinctive because of the white paint job.

Premier’s “Wilderness Express” train cars offer a dining car below the full-dome viewing area. The seats are 23 inches wide with leather upholstery. All the seats recline and feature power ports.

Most of the travelers on the Wilderness Express are part of a group. For individual travelers, Premier works with Alaska Tour and Travel for reservations. Rates for the Wilderness Express are $285 one-way between Anchorage and Denali.

For a fun day-trip on the train, there are a couple of options.

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1. Drive down to Portage and catch the train out to Spencer Glacier. It’s just a 20-minute ride on the train, but it’s a great way to get off the road system and into the wilderness. Once you arrive, go for a hike up to the lake for a view of Spencer Glacier. The cost for a round-trip ticket is $88. Spend about three hours exploring before the train returns to pick you up.

Chugach Adventures offers a package that includes the train ride and a guided raft trip down the Placer River from the lake in front of Spencer Glacier. Rafters get the chance to get up close to the icebergs before heading under the railroad bridge for the easy float downstream. Then, at the appointed moment, the guide beaches the raft and everyone gets out on the shore. Right on cue, the train comes by and picks you up for the return trip to Portage. The cost is $295 for adults, or $148 for children under 12.

2. Take the Hurricane Turn train from Talkeetna. This is the last “flag stop” rail service in America. It’s designed specifically for those who have camps or homes off the road system. Pack your own lunch for this special journey. You’re likely to see homesteaders and adventurers on this six-hour trip from Talkeetna up to Hurricane and back.

The train goes real slow over the Hurricane Bridge so you can appreciate the 296-foot drop from the rails to Hurricane Creek. The cost for the trip is $119 per adult.

Mahay’s Jet Boat Adventures offers a “River, Rail and Trail” journey which includes the train ride from Talkeetna to Curry. From there, travelers can check out what remains of a once-popular layover for train travelers. Then, get in a jet boat for an exciting trip back to Talkeetna on the Susitna River. Stop at a trapper’s cabin for a brief tour and history lesson. Cost is $185 per adult.

Now that the avalanches are out of the way, it’s time to say “all aboard” for the Alaska Railroad.

Scott McMurren

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. Subscribe to his e-newsletter at alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

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